“About eighty percent of the food on shelves of supermarkets today didn’t exist 100 years ago.”
― Larry McCleary
In recent years I have noticed that grocery shopping, an activity most people undertake in order to eat, which in turn is necessary for survival, has turned into a labor of guilt. The trend from supermarket towards health food store has been steadily progressing to the point where it seems the shelves have been taken over with kale chips, tofu, protein bars, and a myriad of gluten-free products, the staple of today’s holistic foodie. If it is even possible to find the wicked indulgences I sometimes crave (mmm, Sweet Chili Heat Doritos) among all of the “healthy alternatives”, I find myself feeling compelled to hide them in my cart underneath the quinoa and almond milk. At least I can rest easy knowing that I got my 30 minutes of physical activity for the day power-walking from one end of my local grocery store’s vast new organic food section to the other. While I certainly agree that health and nutrition are important, sometimes I wonder if things haven’t gone a little too far. That is, I did wonder. And then I saw this:
Take a good look folks. No, your eyes are not mistaken. And no, unfortunately, it’s not a joke. It is in fact toaster chicken. As in chicken that you put in your toaster, toast, and then eat. I’ll give you a moment. I know I needed one.
Ready? Okay. Let’s talk about this. As I stood in front of the freezer section for several minutes trying to wrap my mind around this curiosity while simultaneously snapping photos and texting them to everyone in my contact list before my husband found me and dragged me away, I myself had but one thought: Why?
Though practical considerations may not be the only or even the leading detractor separating me from the Janes FlatJacks (that would be my husband who said there was no way in hell we were buying them, even for research purposes), there are nonetheless several concerning ones. If a buildup of toast crumbs can be a challenge to clean out of a toaster, imagine the work it would take to remove the breading residue from toaster chicken! Furthermore, is it even sanitary to put chicken in a toaster? And how greasy would said chicken be given that it is presumably deep-fried in a factory before we simply toast it in the comfort of our homes? Perhaps some thought should be put into putting some type of protective coating around it to protect consumer’s hands, for instance a delicious pastry shell.
Looking at the box, it’s easy to see that from a marketing perspective, this is a snack geared towards kids. ‘Hey kids! I’m a fun treat! I’m hip! I’m chicken that comes from your toaster!’ Moms will buy the product because they are overworked and stretched too thin, and will be sucked in by it’s deceiving presentation as a very convenient and marginally nutritious option (0 trans fat!), and because their children will whine loudly and incessantly for the latest novelty item on the shelves. And at first glance, it may appear to be a reasonable choice for today’s busy lifestyles.
“Johnny! You’re going to be late for soccer practice! Grab your chicken from the toaster and let’s go!”
However on closer examination I came to see that, as with most things, the product at hand just might not be the miracle of time liberation that the fine people at Janes would have you believe. (Naturally I had to look into this further. My husband thinks I’m obsessed and should seek help but I am simply doing market research for the good of you, my fellow man). We live in a world with products like pre-made crust-less peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, pre-stuffed bagels, Lunchables and drinkable liquid yogurt. People have gotten pretty lazy when they are willing to pay money to buy a sandwich with the crust already cut off for them. A new product basically has to jump out of the freezer and cook itself in order to compete with some of these items in the ‘convenience’ category. This item doesn’t even stand a chance. Sure you can cook it in your toaster, but when you read the fine print you learn that it takes TWO FULL cycles on the toaster’s highest setting. So you have to stand there like a chump for what, like, two minutes until the toaster pops and then press it down AGAIN, and wait for ANOTHER two minutes?? A kid could have had a pepperoni Pizza Pop, a Fruit Roll-up and a Yop in that time and covered all 4 of the food groups.
When I was a kid my mom made sure my sister and I had a well-rounded diet. We had milk at dinner every night, never pop. Our school lunches always consisted of a sandwich, a juice, 2 servings of fruit and a healthy recess treat. To make sure we ate the fruit, she would peel our oranges for us and put them in plastic bags, just to eliminate any barriers to our nutrition. Once (in high school) she couldn’t find seedless grapes at the grocery store, so she cut every single evil seeded grape in half, removed said seeds and placed the grape halves in a little container for me to ensure that they would be up to my high standards. Unfortunately my friends didn’t understand her vision and after they got a glimpse of her loving masterpiece (complete with tiny Oscar the Grouch fork!) I never took a lunch to school again. But I digress. My point is that even though she was very conscious about our nutrition, once in a while if she was tired after a long day at work, she would give in and let us have Kraft Dinner, Chef-Boyardee Beefaroni or even McDonalds for supper. If we whined enough she would buy us Pizza Pops or Pop Tarts at the grocery store as an occasional treat. And about once a month I would open up my lunch and there would be a mini bag of Old Dutch Ketchup chips in there for my snack. Perhaps the youth of today are just different. They may prefer FlatJacks above Toaster Strudel or Pizza Pops, and who am I to judge? What I don’t understand is why food producers and retailers are so desperate to slap any greatly exaggerated health claim they can legally defend onto their products in order to convince people that there is even marginal nutritional benefit to what they are selling. Why not just call a spade a spade? Crap is crap. Back in my day (I can say that now that I’m over 30) we didn’t pretend that junk food was anything other than junk food. Now when I want to buy macaroni and cheese I have to wade through shelves full of whole wheat, organic and gluten free varieties just to find a $1 box of regular old KD. And I’m sorry, but I fail to believe that any noodles, be they high fiber, organic, or made out of Flintstones vitamins, are all that healthy when covered with powdered cheese. (Nor are they worth $4.99 plus tax). When I was a kid we enjoyed our breaded chicken snacks from the oven, not the toaster, but the idea was much the same. No one felt the need to go on about the fact that we were eating “All white meat!” with “No trans or saturated fat!” because nobody cared. We were kids. Our cholesterol levels were relatively well controlled at that point.
This trend towards aggrandizing the nutritional advantages of the array of convenience foods available on the grocery store shelves and from fast-food outlets coupled with the ever-growing number of options available means that people aren’t just enjoying these foods as occasional indulgences or a quick family meal-on-the-go when a parent is feeling overstretched. They are starting to creep into people’s everyday lives. And that’s the problem.
I’m not an expert. I don’t have children, and I won’t even pretend to understand how difficult it is to try to juggle all of the responsibilities of managing family life. I find it exhausting to manage my own life most days. Convenience food has become a mainstay of the modern lifestyle, a necessity even to some. If people are honest about it’s virtues and, perhaps more importantly, it’s weaknesses, there’s nothing wrong with that. But I think that we can do better than toaster chicken. I hope we can. There will never again be a world devoid of junk food, but perhaps if we’re looking for more things we can conveniently cook at home in our toasters, we can just come up with a new Pop Tart flavor. And I’m not placing my bets on chicken.